Close your eyes and imagine a luxurious weekend full of red wine, white truffles, chocolate-covered hazelnuts, and endless rolling hills. Am I describing heaven or a reasonably-priced weekend away in Italy? You may be shocked to learn you can indulge in all of these for a full weekend at a very affordable cost. I’m here to make the case why you can’t miss Piedmont’s Langhe region. Red wine fans will especially rejoice: this is the region for Barolo, Barbaresco, and Nebbiolo wines. Plus, home to Alba, the region for the rare white truffle.
Table of Contents
How to Get Around?
The Langhe, one of Piedmont’s wine regions, is easily accessible from Milan, Torino, Genova, and other surrounding cities by car. I recommend renting a car in one of these larger city hubs and then transporting yourself to Langhe, as the region is fairly remote and the car rental process will undoubtedly be more complicated. Save yourself the stress.
While there are a few towns that are connected fairly well by train (such as Alba), the overall choices are few and far between. Even then, you’re reliant on train schedules (don’t forget we’re in Italy…) and limited to towns with a train station. So, don’t say I didn’t warn you if you opt that route.
So…for one last, final reminder: I highly recommended having a car in order to explore and enjoy your weekend in the Langhe region to its full extent.
If you plan to visit Torino (consider adding it if it isn’t already on your agenda), don’t miss my post on How to Spend One Day in Torino, Italy.
Or, those coming to and from Milan should check out my guide on the 10+ Best Things to do in Milan, Italy.
NOTE: Be smart and safe when it comes wine tasting and driving. Either have a designated driver, use the spitting method with your tastings, or hire a driver to transport you. When safety is on the line, the extra costs are worthwhile.
Where to Stay?
Because most of the Langhe region is made up of little villages, it can be difficult to find a luxury hotel with all of your expected creature comforts. So, throw that idea out the window! For a true experience, I suggest staying at an agriturismo. There are essentially farm-stays (agriturismo is literally combining the words agriculture and tourism) that offer guests an authentic stay outside of the bustling city centers. To browse vetted ones, I suggest sites like Agriturismo.it or Agriturismo.net. On these sites you can see photos, read reviews, and gain an understanding of what is included.
I initially found Il Cortile because I was booking a dinner at their on-site osteria. When I saw what a great deal they offered for a suite, I had to quickly book. In fact, there are only 4 suites on-site, so it is quite secluded. The sunset views off of their balcony are priceless. This location is fantastic and I highly recommend booking, but move fast as space is limited!
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Day 1: Castles, Truffle, Wine, & Food
Govone Castle
Start your weekend in Langhe jumping straight into history by exploring the Govone Castle. What was formerly a medieval fortress became an elaborate castle, eventually a school, and today is open for public tours.
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There are two levels of elaborate rooms. You’ll meander the castle and view the likes of galleries, bedrooms, and the famous “Chinese rooms,” the largest in Northern Italy. These rooms were my personal favorites. You can see intricate and detailed depictions of the creation of porcelain or collection of rice in fields.
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Tickets are €7 and can be purchased directly through the website or on-site at their ticket office. Govone Castle is open every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. We got lucky and were able to join a small group tour (in Italian) at no up-charge, which helped us understand a bit more beyond the descriptions posted around the castle.
Alba, Home of the Rare White Truffle
If you are lucky enough to have your Piedmont weekend in Langhe fall between October and the beginning of December, you must check out the International White Truffle Festival. Even for those who are not truffle fanatics will want to experience this.
Every weekend there is a large market full of vendors and truffle hunters selling truffles of every shape and size that can explain everything there is to know about this glorified fungus. Remember: truffles are not mushrooms! I mean, have you ever seen a mushroom sell for €3,000?
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I walked in and started to get nervous. I hadn’t been in this situation before. I felt vulnerable. I was scared to put it anywhere near my mouth, but the peer pressure from everyone was getting to my head. I told myself to close my eyes, open my mouth, relax, and just do it. I was…ready to pop my cherry.
My white truffle cherry, that is. (Don’t worry, you didn’t slip onto the wrong blog!)
Some background: I have tried black truffle many times before and in all honesty, was never a big fan. I suppose my palette is not posh enough. My boyfriend insisted we get white truffle dishes, so I could finally try it for the first time (let’s be real, he also probably just wanted to eat some as well). I was pushing back due to the price.
At the festival, it cost a whopping €43 to top your plate of food with some white truffle flakes. That is €43 in addition to the price of the food! So, we called our bank to take out a loan and then ordered a few plates.
I kid, I kid. But, I am preparing you for the sticker shock!
We ordered the white truffle with pasta and eggs. I was hesitant to try it but then….wait…it can’t be. I don’t like truffle… Or… maybe I just don’t like black truffle. I loved the garlicky, nutty flavor. It complimented the dishes so well. I was glad we splurged.
Perhaps my palette is more posh than I thought after all.
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At Alba’s International White Truffle Festival you can also book special events such as cooking classes, private talks, and exhibitions. Some require additional or upgraded tickets and they sell out fast – so search in advance if you plan to join!
But, Alba isn’t just home to white truffles. Ice cream lovers, brace yourself. Alba has a unique ice cream parlor called Enrietto il Latte a Gelato.
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You pay €12 for all you can eat fior di latte ice cream and the restaurant supplies you with a variety of toppings. Think: chocolate, jam, vanilla bean, etc!
I suggest frutti di bosco and hot pear mixed with chocolate. Were they delicious? Absolutely.
Now, let’s switch up the mood and transition from food to beverages. We’re in Piedmont’s wine region, after all.
Wine Tasting or Explore Nearby Towns
Get the party started early by heading to the first wine tasting of the trip. Otherwise, you can take the opportunity to visit some of the nearby villages.
I personally visited the Piercarlo Culasso winery. Considering we are traveling through the Langhe region (aka home to some high-class wineries), Piercarlo’s tasting is a steal. You can visit their site and have a tasting of 5 wines for €15 per person.
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We were very impressed with this newer winery. The young girl giving our tour is working alongside her siblings and father to create their growing brand. You can easily see how much passion the family has behind the wine. If you have time, a visit to support this growing winery is a plus.
Dinner at Osteria il Cortile
Even if you aren’t a guest at Il Cortile, put their on-site restaurant on your weekend in Langhe, Piedmont itinerary.
In fact, one of my favorite ways to explore Italy is through the food since every region has such particular dishes. One of my local tips when traveling through Italian countrysides is to check out reviews of the on-site restaurants at agriturismos – many have incredible offerings and it is a way to taste some delicious and incredibly fresh food.
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We opted for the tasting menu and it did not disappoint. You KNOW it is good when you are almost too full to finish dessert. It was a chocolate, coconut panna cotta that I will daydream about for the rest of my life.
Day 2: Chocolate, Wine, & Priceless Panoramics
Prepare yourself as our day 2 itinerary in the Langhe region of Piedmont is heavy on the winery tours! Come on, you can’t spend a weekend in Langhe, Piedmont and not drink all the wine!
Pasticceria Barbero
Start the day filling up on a goodies at Pasticceria Barbero. If you’ve ever tried the Italian brand Perugina’s Baci chocolates, then you will love this pitstop. For those unfamiliar, baci chocolates are a hazelnut/chocolate treat. In addition to wine, Piedmont is also well-known for their hazelnut production.
Pasticceria Barbero has been concocting their delicious chocolate and hazelnut chocolates for over 140 years. Sounds like they know exactly what they are doing!
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If you have extra time in your itinerary, you can even book chocolate tastings here!
Slightly off the main street you will also find Riccardi. The owner is a bit of a character but also offers spectacular chocolates as well.
Borgogno Rivata
The first winery on today’s agenda is Borgogno Rivata. This winery offers a few options of visitations and tastings. I recommend spending the additional €10 to taste all 5 wines because they were well worth it. The total comes to €35 per person.
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They are another “younger” winery, run by 3 friends. They sell mostly to private buyers, which makes a trip here even more special; you likely won’t find their bottles at a restaurant or grocery store.
Make sure to book your reservation in advance because the winery was absolutely full and some groups even had to be turned away.
Lunch in La Morra
La Morra is a quaint town in Langhe, Piedmont. Its location makes it a perfect mid-day spot between the wineries. In fact, it is highly recommended to take a stroll through La Morra simply for its views alone!
It is perched at a slightly higher elevation above the valley, so on a clear day you feel like you’re overlooking the entire Langhe region. The views are out of this world. Photos don’t even capture the beauty.
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After all of this wine, you may want to get some food in our system. I recommend making a reservation at either Osteria More e Macine or Vinbar. Of course, as with almost anywhere in Piedmont’s wine region, they both have a wide variety of wines to choose from if you desire another tasting. No judgement!
Honestly, you can’t go wrong with either of these locations. If you don’t want a full meal, I recommend picking up some snacks at the Supermercato Borello, the local grocery store off the main road. You can head up to the Belvedere di La Morra to soak in the magnificent view.
Borgogno Winery
I wanted to add Borgogno Winery to my list because I am already familiar with their brand and some of their wines, such as No Name.
Send an email in advance to find out about their English tours. The visitation around the property takes about 45-minutes and then there are a variety of tasting add-ons to try.
The amount of wineries to choose from during a weekend in Langhe is overwhelming!
An Elaborate Meal at Ca’ Del Re.
The final dinner in Piedmont was something I won’t forget soon. We drove to a small town called Verduno just to eat at another agriturismo named Ca’ Del Re.
It was an absolutely pleasure. Between the service, setting, food, and wine…it was an unforgettable night. We wanted to try a bit of everything again, so we ordered the tasting menu. See some snippets below.
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Day 3: One Final Castle
After a busy kick-off, the final morning is off to a slow start. Depending on when day 3 of your trip falls in the week, you can either visit more wineries or continue to explore the nearby villages throughout Langhe.
Serralunga Castle
However, I’d like to bring things back full circle! We kicked off the weekend in Langhe with a castle and now let’s conclude it with another castle. We’re off to the Serralunga Castle.
You can only enter the Serralunga Castle with a guided tour, which is included with your ticket. Keep in mind that this means there is usually a limited availability of tickets, meaning they sell out! Email the ticket office in advance to see which tour and time slot your group can be added to.
The guide will walk you through the rooms and have you mentally step back in time to the medieval ages. The real treat is the 360 degree views at the top!
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Additional Activities in Piedmont
- Visit a Hazelnut Farm
- Go Truffle Hunting – Keep in mind this will be a tourist activity. While it gives you a chance to ask questions about truffles and of course will be fun, “true/authentic” truffle hunters have their own hidden go-to spots in the forests and are highly unlikely to take groups out there. In fact, I highly recommend giving the film The Truffle Hunters a watch. It provides some great insight into this profession as one of the generations is dying out.
This officially wraps up a quick guide on how to spend a weekend in Langhe, Piemonte! I hope you have a fantastic visit and leave full off of wine, chocolate, hazelnuts, truffle, and more.
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